Post by Flying Horse on Oct 30, 2011 0:43:35 GMT -5
Old World, Not Trendy by Harvey Reissig, The Grape Guru
Finger Lakes winemakers have made great strides during the last decade in improving the overall quality of red wines, and wine lovers are starting to take notice — even though we are still not well known as a red wine location. Our reds are fruity and pair well with food, but the general style is similar to those from cooler climate Old World wine production regions. Wines from warmer areas such as California and Australia often have high levels of alcohol and a soft finish with traces of residual sugar.
For many reasons, it is difficult to produce reasonably priced Finger Lakes reds. For instance, our growing season is short and it can be difficult for grape varieties such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon to fully mature. Although traditional native grapes such as Concord, and older French hybrids such as baco, foch and chancellor, can be grown relatively easily here, many consumers are demanding reds made with more sophisticated Old World varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir.
Fortunately, for frugal red wine lovers, many area winemakers are starting to take innovative approaches to produce high-quality, dry reds that can be marketed in the $10 to $15 range. The official release in 2006 by Cornell University of two species of high-quality hybrids is undoubtedly facilitating the production of high-quality, less expensive red table wines. Noiret (pronounced “nwahr-ay”) is a hybrid red wine grape resulting from a cross made in 1973 that has chancellor and Steuben in its parentage. Wines made from this grape have a nice tannic structure and a lack of typical herbaceous hybrid flavors. The wine also has flavors and aromas of blackberry, a smoky complexity and a distinctive aftertaste of black pepper. The overall flavor and aroma profile is somewhat similar to wines from the upper Rhone Valley in France. The other new hybrid, corot noir (pronounced “kor-oh nwahr”) has Steuben, chancellor and Villard blanc in its parentage. It creates wines with fairly firm tannins and cherry and red berry flavors and aromas. Wines produced from this grape are fresh and fruity and have a Beaujolais-type character.
Most of the “newer style” inexpensive reds being produced here are made by blending less expensive New York vinifera grapes, such as cabernet franc and lemberger, with noiret and corot noir. These relatively dry wines are usually simple, fruity and generally similar to lighter-style Rhone and Beaujolais wines. Most are aged for a relatively short period of time in oak barrels and meant to be consumed fairly quickly. They will pair well with simple food such as pasta, pizza and grilled meat. An increasing number of local wineries are producing these styles of reds. I predict that this trend will continue and eventually these relatively sophisticated blends will gradually replace older-style reds produced from traditional French hybrids. These fresh, fruity blends are a perfect complement to fall picnic fare and will even be suitable for simple holiday dinners. These wines are priced so that they can be enjoyed more frequently with simple meals and not reserved for special occasions.
Reissig, an entomologist at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, is a wine enthusiast who has visited wineries in the Napa and Sonoma regions in California and extensively toured Finger Lakes Vineyards for 30 years. He also regularly serves on tasting panels and as a judge for wine competitions.
Some newer style reds
A look at “newer style” Finger Lakes reds
• Penguin Bay, 2005 Maroon Four — $14. One of the first commercial wines to use the new red wine grapes released by Cornell. A blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, corot noir and noiret. A Rhone style with smoke, plums and a spicy black pepper finish. Goes well with red meat and other hearty dishes.
• Red Newt Red Eft — $11.99. A blend of cabernet franc (27%), cabernet sauvignon (23%), syrah (16%), pinot noir (4%), noiret (4%) and merlot (16%). Deep, dark red color. An earthy wine with good body and texture on the palate. Smoky, earthy, plum jam and black pepper. A definite Rhone style.
• Fulkerson Burn tray — $11.99. A blend of noiret (33%) and cabernet sauvignon (66%). A dark, red wine with mellow, supple tannins. Black currant and elderberry flavors and aromas with a black pepper finish.
• Hunt Country Alchemy — $13.99. A blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and noiret. Smoky, black cherry flavors and aromas. A black pepper aftertaste with a nice tannic structure.
• Ravines Keuka Village Red 2010 — $12.95. The first year that this blend of cabernet franc (40%) and noiret (60%) has been produced by this winery. Black pepper with notes of plum jam. A pleasant wine with supple tannins and a soft finish. Relatively low in alcohol (12%). Goes well with a variety of simple food dishes.
Finger Lakes winemakers have made great strides during the last decade in improving the overall quality of red wines, and wine lovers are starting to take notice — even though we are still not well known as a red wine location. Our reds are fruity and pair well with food, but the general style is similar to those from cooler climate Old World wine production regions. Wines from warmer areas such as California and Australia often have high levels of alcohol and a soft finish with traces of residual sugar.
For many reasons, it is difficult to produce reasonably priced Finger Lakes reds. For instance, our growing season is short and it can be difficult for grape varieties such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon to fully mature. Although traditional native grapes such as Concord, and older French hybrids such as baco, foch and chancellor, can be grown relatively easily here, many consumers are demanding reds made with more sophisticated Old World varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir.
Fortunately, for frugal red wine lovers, many area winemakers are starting to take innovative approaches to produce high-quality, dry reds that can be marketed in the $10 to $15 range. The official release in 2006 by Cornell University of two species of high-quality hybrids is undoubtedly facilitating the production of high-quality, less expensive red table wines. Noiret (pronounced “nwahr-ay”) is a hybrid red wine grape resulting from a cross made in 1973 that has chancellor and Steuben in its parentage. Wines made from this grape have a nice tannic structure and a lack of typical herbaceous hybrid flavors. The wine also has flavors and aromas of blackberry, a smoky complexity and a distinctive aftertaste of black pepper. The overall flavor and aroma profile is somewhat similar to wines from the upper Rhone Valley in France. The other new hybrid, corot noir (pronounced “kor-oh nwahr”) has Steuben, chancellor and Villard blanc in its parentage. It creates wines with fairly firm tannins and cherry and red berry flavors and aromas. Wines produced from this grape are fresh and fruity and have a Beaujolais-type character.
Most of the “newer style” inexpensive reds being produced here are made by blending less expensive New York vinifera grapes, such as cabernet franc and lemberger, with noiret and corot noir. These relatively dry wines are usually simple, fruity and generally similar to lighter-style Rhone and Beaujolais wines. Most are aged for a relatively short period of time in oak barrels and meant to be consumed fairly quickly. They will pair well with simple food such as pasta, pizza and grilled meat. An increasing number of local wineries are producing these styles of reds. I predict that this trend will continue and eventually these relatively sophisticated blends will gradually replace older-style reds produced from traditional French hybrids. These fresh, fruity blends are a perfect complement to fall picnic fare and will even be suitable for simple holiday dinners. These wines are priced so that they can be enjoyed more frequently with simple meals and not reserved for special occasions.
Reissig, an entomologist at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, is a wine enthusiast who has visited wineries in the Napa and Sonoma regions in California and extensively toured Finger Lakes Vineyards for 30 years. He also regularly serves on tasting panels and as a judge for wine competitions.
Some newer style reds
A look at “newer style” Finger Lakes reds
• Penguin Bay, 2005 Maroon Four — $14. One of the first commercial wines to use the new red wine grapes released by Cornell. A blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, corot noir and noiret. A Rhone style with smoke, plums and a spicy black pepper finish. Goes well with red meat and other hearty dishes.
• Red Newt Red Eft — $11.99. A blend of cabernet franc (27%), cabernet sauvignon (23%), syrah (16%), pinot noir (4%), noiret (4%) and merlot (16%). Deep, dark red color. An earthy wine with good body and texture on the palate. Smoky, earthy, plum jam and black pepper. A definite Rhone style.
• Fulkerson Burn tray — $11.99. A blend of noiret (33%) and cabernet sauvignon (66%). A dark, red wine with mellow, supple tannins. Black currant and elderberry flavors and aromas with a black pepper finish.
• Hunt Country Alchemy — $13.99. A blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and noiret. Smoky, black cherry flavors and aromas. A black pepper aftertaste with a nice tannic structure.
• Ravines Keuka Village Red 2010 — $12.95. The first year that this blend of cabernet franc (40%) and noiret (60%) has been produced by this winery. Black pepper with notes of plum jam. A pleasant wine with supple tannins and a soft finish. Relatively low in alcohol (12%). Goes well with a variety of simple food dishes.
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